Onsen Etiquette: What They Don’t Tell You Before You Go

The first time I stood outside an onsen changing room, I hesitated. TV makes it look simple, but nobody tells you the small, specific things. So here’s the version I wish I’d had before our ryokan night in Hakone.

The short version:

• You go in fully naked. No swimwear.
• Shower and wash properly before you touch the bath.
• The small towel never goes in the water. Most people put it on their head.
• Keep it quiet, and no phones or photos.
• Tattoo rules vary by place.

Yes, you really go in naked

This is the one that scares most people. In almost every onsen, swimwear isn’t allowed. You undress completely in the changing room, and nobody looks twice.

It feels strange for about a minute, then it doesn’t. If it’s really not for you, look for a private bath (kashikiri) that you book just for yourselves.

Shower first, every time

There’s a row of low stools and hand showers. Sit down and wash your whole body with the soap provided. This isn’t a quick rinse, it’s the rule, because everyone shares the bath water after you.

The tiny towel and where it goes

You get a small towel, separate from your big one.

• Use it to cover up a bit while walking to the bath.
• Never dip it in the water.
• While soaking, fold it and rest it on your head. You’ll see almost everyone doing it.

The water is hotter than you’d expect. Give it a few minutes and your body adjusts.

Onsen, sento and everything in between

• Onsen → water from a natural hot spring.
• Sento → a public bathhouse with regular heated water.

For you as a traveller, the etiquette is exactly the same in both.

Some ryokan and hotels include onsen access in the room price, others charge extra. Check at check-in.

Tattoos

There’s no national ban, but each place sets its own rule:

• Some are fine with tattoos.
• Some let you in if you cover a small one with a patch.
• Some still say no.

If you have larger tattoos, a private bath avoids the question. Check the policy before you go.

A few more things nobody mentions

• Keep your voice down. It’s meant to be quiet.
• Leave your phone in the locker. Photos inside are a serious no.
• Tie up long hair so it doesn’t touch the water.
• Skip alcohol before bathing. It’s not safe in hot water.
• Mixed baths (konyoku) are rare now. Almost everything you’ll find is separated by gender.

Before your first time

Shower properly, go in with nothing on, keep the little towel dry and give the heat a few minutes. After the first minute of hesitation, it becomes one of the most relaxing parts of a Japan trip. It was one of ours.