Quick answer

Take the Romancecar to Hakone, go up to Gora and ride the cable car to Sounzan, take the ropeway over Owakudani to Togendai, cruise Lake Ashi on the pirate ship, and use local buses to get back. Check ropeway status before you go.

Hakone felt completely different from Tokyo. More natural, mountainous and relaxed. We did the classic loop, and it’s one of those days where the landscape changes every hour.

The short version:

  • Getting there → Odakyu Romancecar from Tokyo, via Odawara.
  • The loop → Gora → cable car → Sounzan → ropeway over Owakudani → Togendai → pirate ship on Lake Ashi.
  • Getting back → local buses.
  • Check before you go → the ropeway can close for volcanic activity or weather.

Getting there

We travelled from Tokyo towards Hakone via Odawara on the Odakyu Romancecar. Comfortable seats, big windows, and it felt like the trip had already started. More in my train rides guide.

The loop, step by step

  1. Gora → the starting point for the climb.
  2. Cable car (funicular) → up the steep slope to Sounzan.
  3. Hakone Ropeway → from Sounzan, over Owakudani, down to Togendai.
  4. Pirate ship cruise → across Lake Ashi.
  5. Local buses → to get around and back to the hotel.
Sounzan → Togendai Hakone Ropeway & Owakudani You pass right over an active volcanic valley with steam rising from the ground. Open in Google Maps
Togendai Lake Ashi pirate cruise A slow boat across the lake after the ropeway. Calm, with mountains all around. Open in Google Maps
Gora Gora & the Sounzan cable car The steep little cable car that takes you up to the ropeway. Open in Google Maps

Owakudani: the part you’ll remember

The ropeway isn’t just a scenic cable car ride. Part of it passes right over the Owakudani volcanic area.

  • You see volcanic steam and sulphur fumes rising from the ground.
  • The landscape looks nothing like the rest of the trip.
  • On clear days, the ropeway also gives views towards Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji.

Because it’s an active volcanic area, the ropeway can sometimes be suspended because of volcanic activity or weather. Check the status on the morning you go.

The pirate ship on Lake Ashi

After the steam and sulphur, the lake is calm and quiet. The boats are styled like old pirate ships, which sounds silly but somehow works. Sitting on deck with mountains all around was a nice way to slow down.

Where we stayed

We stayed at a traditional ryokan in Hakone, Hotel Nehako Ryokan Onsen. It was one of the experiences that made the trip feel distinctly Japanese. More in my ryokan guide.

Before you leave Hakone

We sent our suitcase from a 7-Eleven in Hakone straight to Kyoto, so we could travel light for the next few days. Here’s how luggage forwarding works.

We didn’t do all of these, but you’ll hear about them:

  • Black eggs at Owakudani → eggs boiled in the hot springs, the shells turn black from the minerals. Local belief says each one adds seven years to your life.
  • Hakone Free Pass → a pass covering most of the loop’s transport. Worth comparing with single tickets for your route.
  • Hakone Shrine → the red torii gate standing in Lake Ashi, a popular photo stop near Moto-Hakone.
  • Hakone Open-Air Museum → sculptures outdoors in the mountains, near Gora.

My advice

Give Hakone a full day, not half. Start early, check the ropeway status, and treat any Mount Fuji sighting as a bonus. The volcanic valley and the lake are the main event.